A lofty pub which hits new heights

Pub of the week: The Winterburn, Warley
Drinks selection80%
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This has surely got to be one of the loftiest pub locations in West Yorkshire. The views down the Ryburn and Calder Valley from this smartly whitewashed Thwaite’s pub at the top of Winterburn Hill are jaw-dropping – it’s high on the hillside near Warley and a hiker’s mecca. As well as vistas across the moors from inside, there’s a decked patio area at the side to enjoy them with a pint of Wainwright for company.
I’ve a feeling it’s had a bit of a chequered past; the furniture’s mismatched, but not in that artful, deliberate way you get with gussied-up pubs, but rather, several styles down various decades neglected by a succession of landlords. Fair enough.
But it’s got enough going for it to be interesting, mainly because the young woman who has taken it on, Carla Morris is a local lass back from London where she was a chef. The menu appeals; asparagus, pea and mint soup, roast vegetable tagliatelle, homemade chicken and leek pie. On the Fish Friday board in the airy, lofted dining room you’ll find the likes of wild black sea bream with spiced lentils and halibut fricassee.
The Wainwright was on song – perhaps one of the best pints we’ve had in a while. Also available, Magic Sponge and Coiled Spring; Thwaites appear to have employed a court jester to brand their beers. My tip is to not take too much notice of the 80s swirly carpet and brown moquette upholstery and instead concentrate on the head-turning views, the well-kept ale and the promise of rather a good dinner.

About The Author

Mandy Wragg is a freelance food journalist, writing and inspecting for the Yorkshire Post, Alastair Sawday, the Morning Advertiser, the AA, Cool Places and David Hancock's Inn Places. She co-writes www.squidbeak.co.uk, an independent guide to eating, drinking and staying in Yorkshire.

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